STAR TREK PROP, PHASER "EXTRA" CRISPY FOIL, STAMPED ALUMINUM

Description

Star Trek Metal / Foil extra crispy for; All, J. Long or, similar P1 shells (
also fits Roddenberry & Wand Co
)
Real Aluminum Extra Crispy, Stamped Aluminum Aspirator Grill, not hard anodized, not die cast zinc, not mylar plastic, : ready for installation on your prop project, easy to work with and apply finish.
This Aluminum Crispy
replica is, as near as I can tell, an exact PATTERN match to the J.Long P1 kit Extra Crispy.
The only difference is the thickness.
This extra crispy is just under 32 ga
, the J. Long kit sample I have in my collection is just a whisper thinner. The item up for sale is about
0.20
mm
thick. The J. Long I have measures about
0.17
mm
thick + / - (hard to measure textured materials so thin).
One pc. per order, quantity discounts above, buy more and save.
This exact crisp is shown on a variety of props for your reference (Example Historic Props Not Part Of Sale...). This listing is for ONE ALUMINUM 60 DEGREE CRISP.
Fit’s:
AA/DS, The Wand Company, HMS Roddenberry Resin Phasers, Shanko Fiberglass kits, 23rd Century Pistol Kits and, likely fits nearly all others
. Made to the standard
Star Trek nominal 0.97 " x 1.30 "
, you may need to trim the 1.30 " length for specific installations. The 0.97 " dimension will likely require no trimming.
RON SHANKO HERO BUILDS:
Ron is using these crisps on his hero build Phasers ! He told me these are the best crisps he has ever seen !
Exact Dimensions:
Perfect and evenly cut rectangle as seen in the photo’s;
The standard Star Trek nominal 0.97 x 1.30 "
.  I was at the EMP/MoPOP 50th Star Trek Exhibit in Seattle this April 2017 and I transported my Crispy to compare the “detail” to the exhibited “Paul Allen Family Collection, aka the Zolar-X” P2 crispy.
As far as appearance goes, they are near identical.
History, R&D, & The MoPop:
Mr. Brooks Peck, the curator for the Star Trek 50th exhibit, was kind enough to help me with some crispy
research
. He was able to determine through some physical testing that the Zolar-X Paul G. Allen Phaser crispy was neither aluminum, nor plastic, in in fact he and his conservator staff thought it maybe appeared to be paper. The embossed silver paper theory was further
corroborated with an associate who was able to; (a) contact the prior Zolar-X owner and, (b) re-inspect the West Coast Collector 1, Mid Grade Phaser crispy. This was a mind blow to learn about paper crisps !!
John Long Story:
I was able to find and correspond with the individual that co-surveyed the famed John Long P1 that was was reproduced as a kit. He told me
he was
absolutely certain
the surveyed original screen used prop had an aluminum foil crispy
and that's why John Long went to such an extreme measure to make a stamping die for reproduction. J. Long wanted a 100% accurate prop reproduction!
Annealing:
Anneal with a propane torch to take the Spring out of the part is suggested. (like a ParaGraphixs part). Just a bit of heat. Do not melt it.
Attachment:
I use five minute epoxy set and masking tape to hold down an
un-annealed part
, but hey everyone has their own method.
Corners:
I p
rovide you a crisp with square corners.
To add radius by hand:
masking tape may be applied to the rear of crispy, next use an aluminum Master-Template or Circle Template is used to draw 1/8 INCH radius on the part, finally very sharp heavy duty scissor is used to cut each corner with great precision (not sheet metal shear as sheet metal shear leaves shark tooth edge).
This Real Aluminum is easy to;
mirror
polish
, drill, cut with scissors, weather, rolex grain and, do anything else you can come up with, your the prop builder and I say have some fun!.
You get what you see in the photographs
, but ask questions anyway…..live long and
CLICK; EXPLODED PHASER LASER SLIDESHOW; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; AA/DS PHASER-LASER HOW-TO; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; TOS-PHASER FIN FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; TOS-PHASER SIDE-RAIL FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; TOS BRASS BUTT & OVAL HANDLE YOUTUBE HOW-TO
CLICK FOR RESIN PROPS TO PUT MY METAL ON
METAL PARTS;
Prior to use, all Metal Parts MUST be cleaned to remove machine coolant residue. Use dish-washing detergent such as "Dawn" or "Palmolive" to insure a clean part. COOLANT CAN NOT BE SEEN NOR FELT, BUT IT IS THERE SO CLEAN THE PART.
Annealing;
Like a Paragraphix Part, this stamped part has some spring-to-it from stamping and a quick annealing with a propane torch will remove all the spring. Take care to not melt this this aluminum part.
Some Star Trek Prop History For Inquiring Minds:
Most of these Prop Makers and Technicians have passed-on.
Below are old-timer accounts of convention conversations before conventions were really a fad. (all 2nd hand stories)
The persons quoted worked for; the studio.
Mr. Bob Stone
was Star Trek's machinist and made all the metal prop parts for all three seasons of the show. Parts were made to order for each episode as in those times (the 1960’s) as machining was done by hand and there was no advantage to making short runs (and no studio funding either). Each episode had a specific budget. Speaking of budgets, Bob relied on his Star Trek friend
Robert Archer
(VP of Budgeting for the show) in getting a little leeway on the $ so he could do the best possible job. According to Bob there was no magic drum of Phaser Nozzles and every job was a mad-dash to meet the filming deadlines.
Because parts were made only to order, parts varied quite a bit. These variations can be seen in all the surviving examples of TOS hand props from Phaser to Communicators and Tricorders. Sometimes it was not that  a new design was needed but rather that when one Wings it from a sketch, in a hurry using what is on-hand, you get an unintended-new-version of something (in the 1960’s the TV audience never could see that).
Robert Archer and Bob Stone worked closely together so when the show was cancelled suddenly in season three, Robert Archer ended up with a nice collection of hand props.
Richard Heimer
made the molds for hand props. He also did all the casting and forming. This included; Vacuum form bucks, Fiberglass molds and, urethane molds. Again, according to him most work is done in the normal Hollywood maddening rush. He shared with his convention friends that there were many molds made from molds when the production schedule demanded this. He also shared that when the show ended he rescued the molds from being discarded by putting them in his garage.
James Ruggs
(b. 1919) was the director of special effects for the show. He handled and repaired many of the props on-set. When the show was cancelled in season three he rescued many hand props and even some models from the scrap heap. Dick Ruben, Prop & Art Assistant on the show, got his Set-Used Klingon disruptor from James.  Mr. Ruggs held on to his rather large Star Trek collection for many years. It is widely known that Greg Jein got his Holy-Grail Hero Phaser from James.
In closing a nod to
Mr. Ruck
, a prop technician, who reported that he repaired some hand props hundreds of times as they were often damaged during filming. He had also shared that the fiberglass Mid-Grade’s, and some other props often used basswood strips between the seams to establish uniform dimensions. Watch some YouTube Star Trek TOS bloopers to see what he was talking when it comes to repairs and hand props flying apart.
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